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Wood Play Structure

Grab your junior construction crew. This DIY project is perfect for the whole family to do together. A children’s play structure is not only fun for your kids, it will bring out your inner child in the building process. We also know, as a parent, you want a safe and reliable structure that will leave you worry free during playtime. That is why this project uses the most durable and strong material out there, Advantage Ipe. Here is everything you need to know to get started!

Materials List

Lumber List

Qty. Size Part
4 4x4 @ 70" Ladder leg
2 4x4 @ 72" Ladder support base
2 4x4 @ 71" Lower beam
4 2x4 @ 12¾" Leg brace #1
4 2x4 @ 15¼" Leg brace #2
8 5/6x6 @ 47" Decking
3 4x4 @ 41" Deck end beam, mid beam (not shown)
4 4x4 @ 44" Post
4 4x4 @ 7" Post support block
2 4x4 @ 51" Top beam
2 2x4 @ 56" Horizontal member
4 2x4 @ 18" Roof support
3 5/4x6 @ 37" Stringer
4 5/4x6 @ 34" Baluster
4 2x2 @ 7" Baluster support block
2 4x4 @ 113" Double swing beam
2 4x4 @ 96" A-frame leg
1 2x4 @ 41" A-frame brace
1 4x4 @ 96" A-frame support base
4 2x4 @ 39" Rafter
14 1x6 @ 66" Roofing material

Step 1: Assemble the Ladders

A.) Cut four 4x4 ladder legs at 70" using a reciprocating saw. Draw a reference line down the middle of each leg using a straightedge. Measuring from one end, mark each leg along the reference line at 3 ¾", 13’, 24" 35", 46", and 57".

B.) At the 3 ¾" mark, drill a 3/8" hole through each ladder leg. At the remaining marks, drill a 1 3/8"-deep holes using a 1 5/16" Forstner bit or spade bit, then round over the edges of each to a ¼" radius using the round file.

C.) Drive five 36 ¾" tubular steel ladder rungs into the holes of one ladder leg using a scrap 2x4 and a mallet. Check the alignment of the rungs with a framing square to make sure they are straight. If the rungs are difficult to insert, apply petroleum jelly to the inside of the holes. Note: Loose rungs can be tightened by inserting aluminum flashing into holes. Cut flashing into ¾ x 2" strips, and install so edges are 1/8" below the edges of the holes.

D.) Align the rungs with the holes of the second ladder leg, and fit them in place. Place a scrap 2x4 over the leg, and use a mallet to drive the rungs into the holes of the second leg, creating a 41"-wide ladder. Repeat to build the second ladder.

Step 2: Build the Clubhouse Leg Assembly

A.) Cut two 4x4 lower beams to 71". Measure in from each end and mark at 8 ¾", centered on the beams. Drill 5/8"-deep counter bore holes at each, using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then 3/8" holes through the lower beams.

B.) On the side of the beams opposite the counter bore holes, measure from each end along the top edge and mark at 7 5/8’. Measure along the bottom edge and mark at 6". Connect the marks with a straightedge and draw a reference line.

C.) Place the ladders between the lower beams with the counter bore holes facing out. Align the counter bore holes with the pilot holes at the tops of the ladder legs. Use a ratchet wrench to loosely fasten the structure together using 7" stainless steel carriage bolts with washers.

Step 3: Assemble the Leg Braces

A.) Cut four 2x4 leg brace #1s, following Figure 2. Also cut four leg brace #2s to 15 ¼" using a circular saw.

B.) Align the ladder legs with the reference lines drawn on the beams; then clamp leg brace #1 in place so the angled edge rests on the ladder leg and the top is 1 ¼" above the top face of the lower beam.

C.) From the top of leg brace #1, measure down and mark at 2 and 4" on center. Drill ¼"-deep counter bore holes at each location using a 1 1/8" spade bit, then drill 5/16" pilot holes through the braces. Drive 5/16 x 2 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers through brace #1 and into the lower beam using a ratchet wrench.

D.) Clamp leg brace #2 to leg brace #1, so leg brace #2 is flush with leg brace #1 and butted to the bottom face of the beam. From the top of leg brace #2, measure down and mark at 2", 4 ¼", 11", and 13 ¼" , centered on the brace.

E.) Drill ¼"-deep counter bore holes at each mark using a 1 1/8" spade bit, then 5/16" pilot holes through the braces. Fasten with 5/16x 2 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers using a ratchet wrench.

F.) Brace the next corner, then raise and brace the other side of the structure. Fully tighten the carriage bolts joining the lower beams to the ladder legs.

Step 4: Install the End Beams and Mid Beam

A.) Cut eight 5/4 x 6 decking boards to 47" using a circular saw. Lay one decking board across the lower beams at each end, tight against the tops of the ladders, and aligning one end flush with the edge of one beam. Drill a pair of 5/16" pilot holes, and use 2 ½" stainless steel deck screws to fasten only this one end of the decking board to the lower beams.

B.) Cut two 4x4 end beams to 41". Clamp the end beams to the underside of the decking boards, between the lower beams and tight against the ladder legs.

C.) Drill pairs of 5/8"-deep counter bore holes, using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill ¼" pilot holes through the lower beams and into the end of the end beams. Also drill 3/8" clearance holes for lag screw shanks to a 1" depth. Fasten the beams with 3/8 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers, using a ratchet wrench, until the unattached ends of the decking boards are flush with the edge of the other lower beam.

D.) Drill pairs of 5/16" pilot holes through the unattached ends of the decking boards, and fasten to the other lower beam using 2 ½" stainless steel deck screws.

E.) Cut one 4x4 mid-beam at 41". Center it between the end beams and clamp to the decking boards. Drill pairs of ½"-deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill ¼" pilot holes through the end beams and into the mid-beam. Also drill 3/8’ clearance holes, 1" deep, for the lag screw shanks. Fasten with 3/8" x 5 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers using a ratchet wrench.

F.) Drill 5/16" pilot holes and fasten the decking boards to the mid-beam using 2 ½" stainless steel deck screws.

Step 5: Add the Ladder Support Base

A.) Cut two 4x4 landscape lumbers at 72" for ladder support bases using a reciprocating saw.

B.) Check to make sure the clubhouse is level. Center the ladder support bases against the inside faces of the ladder legs. Set each base into the ground using a mallet.

C.) Clamp the support bases to the ladders. Drill a ½"-deep counter bore hole using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill a ¼" pilot hole through each leg and into the base. Also drill 3/8" shank clearance holes 1" deep each at each counter bore hole. Fasten with 3/8" x 5 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers using a ratchet wrench.

D.) To add strength and stability, attach angled metal braces between the ladders and bases using 5/16 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screws. Also drive 16"-long 2x2 green-treated stakes into the ground at each end of the bases, and attach to the support bases with 5/16 x 3 ½" stainless steel lag screws.

Step 6: Install the Decking and Posts

A.) Evenly space the six remaining decking boards across the lower beams and mid-beam. Drill pairs of 5/16" pilot holes, and then fasten with 2 ½" stainless steel deck scews.

B.) Cut four 7"-long 4x4 blocks. Measure along one side of each post support block and mark the midpoint.

C.) From one end, measure along each lower beam and mark at 16 ¾ and 54 ¼". Clamp the blocks to the underside of the lower beams, aligning the midpoint with each mark on the beams.

D.) Drill 1 ¼"-deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill ¼" pilot holes through the bottom of the blocks, up into the clubhouse. Also drill 1"-deep, 3/8" shank clearance holes. Fasten with 3/8 x 4" lag screws with washers using a ratchet.

E.) Cut four 4x4 posts at 44". Center the posts against the lower beams and blocks at the midpoint and flush with the bottom of the blocks. Square the posts to the clubhouse using a combination square, and clamp in place.

F.) At each post, drill two 5/8"-deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill ¼" pilot holes, one through the post and into the lower beams and one into the blocks. Also drill 3/8" shank clearance holes to a 1" depth. Fasten the posts to the lower beams with 7" stainless steel carriage bolts with washers, and to the blocks using 3/8 x 5 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers using a ratchet wrench.

Step 7: Install the Top Beams and Horizontal Members

A.) On the front side of the posts, measure down from the top and mark at 6".

B.) Cut two 4x4 top beams at 51". Position the top beams across two posts, parallel to the lower beams, and with the top edge of the top beams at the reference marks. Make sure the ends evenly overhang the sides of the posts, check for level, and clamp in place.

C.) Drill 5/8"-deep counter bore holes, using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill ¼" pilot holes through the top beams and into the posts. Also drill 3/8" shank clearance holes to a 1" depth. Fasten the top beams to the posts with 7" stainless steel carriage bolts with washers using a ratchet wrench.

D.) Cut two 2x4 horizontal members at 56". Also cut four 2x4 roof supports at 18" and angle one end at a 45 degree angle.

E.) On the ladder sides of the posts, measure down 1 ½" from the tops and mark. Position the horizontal members across the posts, aligning the top edge with the marks, and sandwiching the roof supports between the members and posts (refer to figure 4). Make sure the members are level, then clamp in place, so the ends evenly overhang the posts.

F.) On the deck side of the posts, drill ½"-deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill 3/8" pilot holes through posts and roof supports and into the horizontal members. Also drill 3/8" shank clearance holes to a 1" depth. Fasten using 6 ½" stainless steel carriage bolts with washers using a ratchet wrench.

Step 8: Install the Stringers and Balusters

A.) Cut 3 5/4 x 6 stringers at 37”. On the side of the clubhouse facing where the swings will be, clamp the stringers to the posts, spaced 2 ½" apart. Rip a scrap board to use as a spacer.

B.) Drill pairs of 5/16" pilot holes through each stringer, into the posts. Fasten with 2" stainless steel deck screws.

C.) Cut four 5/4 x 6 balusters at 34" and four 7"-long 2x2 baluster support blocks. At one end of each baluster, fasten a block to the interior face, flush with the bottom edge. Drill a pair of 5/16" pilot holes, and then fasten with 2" stainless steel deck screws.

D.) Position the balusters so they do not obstruct the ladder entrances to the clubhouse, with the block ends on the deck and the tops against the horizontal members. Loosely fasten the top ends with 2" stainless steel deck screws.

E.) Check the balusters for plumb, and then drill a 5/16" pilot hole through the blocks and into the decking. Fasten using 2 ½" stainless steel deck screws, and then fully tighten the screws at the top ends.

Step 9: Build the Swing A-Frame and Beam Assembly

A.) On the swing side of the clubhouse, install two angled metal braces extending from the lower beam to the posts using 5/16 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screws.

B.) Cut two 4x4 A-frame legs at 96" and one 2x4 A-frame brace at 41".

C.) Lay the legs on a flat surface, and mark on top at 1 ¾" and 44 ¾"- this will be the inside face of the A-frame when the legs are installed. At the 1 ¾" mark, drill 3/8" through holes centered on the legs. At the 44 ¾" mark, drill ½"-deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit, then drill 3/8" through holes. Also drill 3/8" through holes in each end of the brace, 1 ¾" in from each end.

D.) Attach the metal gusset to the inside faces of the legs so the gusset flange faces up. Align the top screw holes of the gusset with the 1 ¾" through holes on the ends of the legs. Attach the gusset with 4" stainless steel carriage bolts so the washers and nuts are at the inside face. Loosely tighten each nut.

E.) Position the brace against the outside face of the legs, aligning the through holes of the brace with the through holes at 44 ¾" on the legs. Fasten the brace to the legs with 5" stainless steel carriage bolts, so the washers and nuts fit in the counter bore hole. Loosely tighten each nut.

F.) Adjust the A-frame legs to create a symmetrical triangle, and then tighten all the nuts. Drill a 7/32" pilot hole into each leg at the two remaining screw holes in the gusset, then secure with 3/8 x ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers.

G.) Cut two 4x4 swing beams at 113". Clamp the beams together, then measure and mark at 5 ¼", 19 ¾", 26 7/8", 34", 49 3/8", 56 ½", 63 5/8", 79", 86 1/8", 93 ¼", and 107 ¾".

H.) Drill 1 ½"- deep counter bore holes using a 1 3/8" spade bit at the marks for 19 ¾", 34", 49 3/8", 63 5/8", 79", and 93 ¼", then 3/8" holes through the beams at all of the locations. Also drill ¼" weep holes from the bottom edge of each counter bore hole out to the outer face of the beam for water drainage.

I.) At the three pilot holes between the counter bore holes, use 7 ½" stainless steel carriage bolts with washers to fasten the beams together.

J.) Turn the beam so the bottom faces up. Install swing hanger clamps at the six counter bore pilot holes (refer to Figure 6). Align each hanger clamp and fasten to the bottom beam with #10 x #1 ½" sheet metal screws. Secure the hangers at the top beam with washers and nuts.

Step 10: Install the Swing A-Frame and Beam

A.) On the swing beam side of the clubhouse; run a level string between the two ladders at the bottom of their outside legs. Measure along the string from one end and mark the midpoint with masking tape.

B.) Place the double swing beam on the ground, perpendicular to and 3 ½" out from the midpoint of the string. Check that the beam is square with the string using a framing square.

C.) Drive a fence stake in the ground 1 ½" away from the far end of the beam. Position the A-frame in front of the stake so it is perpendicular to and centered on the swing beam using a framing square. Secure the A-frame to the stake with string.

D.) With a helper, lift the beam into place, with one end on the gusset and the other end on the top beam of the clubhouse.

E.) Check that the swing beam is square and level, then align the hole in the end of the beam with the screw hole on the top of the gusset and fasten using a 7 ½" stainless steel carriage bolt and washer.

F.) At the clubhouse, make sure the beam is centered on and squared to the top beam. Using the pilot hole in the beam as a guide, drill a 3/8" pilot hole through the top beam. Fasten together using an 11" stainless steel carriage bolt with washer.

G.) Position angled metal braces to connect the swing beam and top beam. Drill 7/32" pilot holes, then fasten using 3/8 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screws with washers.

H.) Drill a 7/32" pilot hole into the bottom swing beam at the second screw hole of the gusset, and then fasten using a 3/8 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screw. Attach an angled metal brace to the gusset and beam using a ¾" hex bolt, lock washer, and nut at the gusset, and drill a 7/32" pilot hole at the beam location and use a 3/8 x 1 ½" stainless steel lad screw.

I.) Connect the beam to the A-frame legs using brace plates. Drill 7/32" pilot holes, then fasten the plates using 3/9 x 1 ½" stainless steel lag screws.

J.) With the beam and A-frame in place, check to make sure the beam is level and the A-frame plumb. Cut and install a 96"-long 3x4 landscape timber leg support base, following the same techniques in step 5.

Step 11: Build the Rafters

A.) Cut four 2x4 rafters at 39". Mark and cut one end of each at a 45 degree angle. Butt the angled ends of two rafters together, install an angle iron at the bottom edge of the joint, and fasten it using ¾" screws. Also center a 4" mending plate over the joint and fasten it with ¾" screws.

B.) Place the rafter assemblies against the inside face of the roof supports, with the mending plate facing into the structure and so the top edge of the rafters are flush with the top of the roof supports. Clamp in place.

C.) Drill pairs of 5/16" pilot holes and fasten the rafters to the roof supports with 2 ½" stainless steel deck screws.

Step 12: Install the Roofing

A.) Cut fourteen 1x6 tongue and groove boards at 66". Position one board on top of the rafters, flush with the ends, and with the tongue pointing toward the peak. Allow the ends to overhang the outside edges of the rafters by 6"on both sides, then clamp in place. Drills pairs of 5/16" pilot holes, then fasten with 2" stainless steel deck screws.

B.) Working toward the peak, position subsequent boards so the groove fits over the tongue of the previous board, and so they overhang the rafters by 6" on each end. Drills pairs of 5/16" pilot holes, then fasten with 2" stainless steel deck screws.

C.) If the last board overhangs the peak, position the board and mark the backside at the peak, then rip to size. Repeat for the other side of the roof.

By choosing Ipe, you will never have to worry about bug and mold damage to your playset. You can rest easy knowing that you have built a sturdy structure that will weather well in any atmosphere. If you liked how simple and easy this project was, check out our other great DIY tutorials.

 

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